Posts Tagged ‘grooming’

The nails of the dog are considered a specialized skin structure.

They tend to grow in a circular fashion which gives the nail a normal curve.  If allowed to grow, they may form a complete circle.  This is commonly seen in a dew claw.  If a nail is not trimmed, it will frequently form a complete circle and grow back into the leg.  This can cause a painful infection.

Many house dogs do not receive adequate abrasive wear to the nails and consequently they grow to dangerous lengths unless clipped.  This can lead to lameness.  It is important to trim the nails on these dogs to maintain attractive and safe lengths.

In trimming nails two major points must be understood:

1.    DOGS GENERALLY DO NOT LIKE TO HAVE THEIR FEET HANDLED.
Therefore, they may resist nail trimming.  When first trimming a young dog’s nails, use patience to get the dog’s confidence.  This extra time may prevent a bad memory experience which may make it a difficult procedure.  It is advisable to work with young dogs to gently file and trim only a small amount of each nail.

2.    AS A NAIL GROWS IN LENGTH – SO DOES ITS BLOOD SUPPLY.
Therefore, a long nail cannot be trimmed to its normal length at one time without causing bleeding.  If you trim an abnormally long set of nails, trim only the safe amount without causing bleeding and we advise repeat trimming at seven to ten day intervals.  During this period the blood supplies will recede so the nail will gradually reduce to a proper and safe length.
In white non-pigmented nails you can see the blood supply. Study these nails to learn the relationship of blood supply to nail length.  By such observation you will be able to judge the proper trim on the dark nail where you cannot see the blood supply.

Anal Sacs ( frequently referred to as anal glands ) are located on each side and slightly below the anus of the dog and cat.  They are in essence and infolded skin structure.

Each anal sac has a duct which empties at the edge of the anus.  The sacs and ducts are lined with glands which secrete a characteristic foul smelling material.

Part of the secretion of the anal sac may be emptied when the pet has a bowel movement.  Many times, however, the sacs are not emptied properly by themselves.  The pet may scoot on its rear end in an attempt to relieve the filled sac.  Many people associate this scooting with tapeworms or to other worm infestations.  By far, however, the largest cause for this scooting is from filled anal sacs.  We have, on occasion, seen tapeworm segments which have entered the anal sacs.

Anal sacs serve no useful purpose in the dog or cat.  It is believed they may have some territorial marking function.  The anal sacs are a frequent source of infection in the dog.  Small poodles and other toy breeds are most frequently involved.  If infected, this serves as a reservoir for bacterial organisms which can spread elsewhere in the body.  Infections from anal sacs, ears, or teeth frequently enter the blood stream and cause kidney disease.  Infected anal sacs may have a discharge which is colored a combination of red, yellow, or green.  The normal secretion is yellowish brown.

Before any attempt is made to empty anal sacs it is important to always be able to detect their exact location.  If full, they can easily be felt below the surface of the skin.  Injury to the sensitive tissues around the anus can occur if excessive pressure is applied to the wrong area.

To express the sacs, first spray a deodorant cologne or skin disinfectant onto a piece of cotton or facial tissue and place this over the anal region.  One hand holds up the tail while the other hand is used to empty the sacs.  To properly express, gentle pressure is applied directly to the filled sacs in a forward and upward direction.  Only the amount which is easily expressed without discomfort should be emptied.

If infected material is detected, you should consult a veterinarian.  If neglected, an abscess can quickly occur.  On occasion, a swollen red painful area over the anal sac will be seen.  This may indicate that an abscess has already occurred and needs the attention of a veterinarian.

Dog ears are a source of frequent problems.

Many dogs have a build-up of wax and foreign matter.  This can lead to ear problems.  Head shaking, scratching, ear odors and sore painful ears are signs of ear problems.  Bacteria frequently breeds in a moist ear canal.

Proper ear care is essential.  Different breeds will require different procedures, but the objectives are to:

• Remove hair
• Clean the ears
• Create a dry ear canal
• Reduce odors

If Hair is present around the outer opening of the ear canal, it should be trimmed to allow proper air circulation and cleanliness.  Ear powder is helpful in removing hair from the ear.  It contains a rosinous powder (rosin grip) to improve grip and reduce slip when trimming.

Clean the ear with ear cleaner.  Fill the entire ear canal and massage the base of the ear.  This allows contact with any wax or debris in the deeper ear canal. 

Next, remove ear wax and debris with facial tissue or cotton.  In Large breeds your finger can reach inside the ear canal with facial tissue or cotton.  In small breeds the tissue or cotton can be twisted into a “wick” to help clean the ear canal.  Massage the base of the ear again to allow the ear wax and debris to be absorbed by the tissue or cotton. 

You can use drying ear creme after the ear is cleaned.  It is a unique liquid and dry phase ear creme.  It begins as a liquid and then dries to a powder to help keep the ear dry.  This is especially desirable in breeds with long ears such as spaniels.  It is pleasantly scented to help reduce ear odors. 

Swimming allows moisture and foreign material to enter the ear.  Use ear cleaner or drying ear crème before and after the dog enters the water. 

Ear products can be used on a continuous basis, as long as they do not contain cortisone or antibiotics.

When pet owners get together, they talk about both the joys and the trials of living with animals.

While the joys are many and varied, there’s one complaint that seems to be shared by all those who live under the same roof with a pet.  The common complaint is one that both you and I are all too familiar with—shedding.

Let’s take an in-depth look at this “hairy” problem, and how I can help you solve it.

The Growth Cycle of Hair

As mammals, most breeds of dogs and cats share the glory of having hair.  Hair serves multiple purposes for mammals.  In the case of dogs and cats in particular, hair serves to insulate the animal from cold and heat, and is a source of protection and beauty.

Hair, by its nature, grows to a certain length that is predestined by the genetics of each particular mammal.  Then, at some point, the hair falls out and is replaced with new hair.  It is that falling-out process that causes the problem.  So what are the mechanics behind hair growth and shedding?

Hair gets its start in the follicle.  While human mammals normally have just one lonely hair per follicle, dogs have multiple hairs coming from each one.  This is because canine follicles are “compound,” producing as many as 20 or more hairs from each follicular unit.  Most breeds have a primary or “guard” hair, and then several secondary hairs.

Human tinkering and genetics have managed to create a wide diversity of coat types in dogs, from soft flowing coats like that of the Maltese to coarse coats found on some terriers.  The variations are many, including the relatively hairless breeds, such as the Chinese crested, to breeds with amazingly dense coats like the chow chow.

No mater its density or texture, hair grows in distinct cycles:

• Anagen, the growth period.
• Catagen, the phase where the hair transforms from growth to resting.
• Telogen, the phase of inactivity.
• Expogen. The period when hair falls from the follicle.

Factors That Influence Shedding

Shedding is controlled by several different factors.  Short-hair dogs, like the doberman I share my heart and home with, shed a lot.  That is because it doesn’t take much time for their short hair to grow.  Short hairs can complete their growth cycle in mere days or weeks.

Meanwhile, my toy poodle appears to not shed at all, because it can take literally years for her hair to grow from the follicle to its full length.

Then there are dogs like the rough collie. The hair on its muzzle and the front of its legs is very short.  The hair on the top of its head is longer. Then there is that glorious big ruff, boasting hair that is long and flowing.  All of this on one animal!

The lack of apparent shedding in poodles, bichons and other breeds has led to the myth that some breeds of dogs are “shed-less.” The truth of the matter is, where there is hair, there is shedding.  Breeds of dogs that have a very long hair growth cycle do shed less than their short-haired counterparts, but shed they do.
Trimming a dog’s or cat’s coat short does not reduce shedding.  The pet just sheds shorter hairs.  In fact, very close clipping can disrupt the animals’ normal shed cycle.

And while we are myth busting, let me digress just a bit and say that dogs that shed less are not necessarily less likely to cause allergic reactions in humans.  Human allergic reactions in dogs tends to be caused more by dander, saliva, urine and outdoor allergens trapped in the dog’s coat then to a specific coat type.

Besides the factor of predetermined genetic coat length, we also need to take into consideration seasonal shedding.  In the spring, the thick coat the dogs grew in preparation for the cold season begins to shed out.  This seasonal shedding is triggered less by the change in temperature than it is by the increased hours of daylight that pets are exposed to.  This makes perfect sense—but why do dogs seem to shed so much in the shorter days of autumn?  The answer is that they shed the lighter coat of summer to make way for the heavy winter coat.

Along with these very normal changes, individual pets’ shed cycles can be affected by their age, general nutritional status, hormonal factors, medication, parasites, illness or even stress.  The condition of a dog’s skin and coat mirrors the overall health of the pet.  A healthy, well-nourished animal will maintain its coat better than one that is infested, ill or not receiving appropriate nutrition.

Be aware that a pet that is shedding normally loses hair all over its body.  While the coat may appear to be thinner overall, the appearance of especially thin or bald patches is not normal and calls for a visit to the veterinarian.

Thorough grooming will remove the bulk of hair that has already left the pet’s follicle, but pet owners may find that their dog is still shedding a good deal in the days following a visit to the groomer.  This is because bathing, drying and brushing further stimulated coat that was about to shed to loosen its hold and join the process.  Normally pet owner will notice a decrease in shedding several days after the grooming.

Before and after photos of dogs who’ve received a Carding grooming to remove excess hair